The Land of Historical Monuments, Divergent Culture, Enchanting Landscapes and a Pilgrimage.
Introduction to Mustang
Mustang is situated in the Trans-Himalayan region in western development region of Dhaulagiri Zone. The deepest gorge, historical sites, human inhabited caves, forts, monasteries and temples, some of which dates back to 4000 BC provide testimonies of its rich past. The Kaligandi river flows beneath the lofty snow-caped peaks creating a stunning landscape. The natural and cultural beauty and grandeur makes the district one or the most popular trekking destination for the internal as well as overseas tourists.
Historically and culturally the present Mustang is found divided into four distinct settlements. The settlements are having their own distinct historical and cultural background.
In the south of the district is the area of Thak Saatsae, which literally mean 'seven hundred houses' which is comprised of the villages of Ghasa, Lete, Kalopani, Chhayo, Jhipra, Tagling, Kunjo, Titi, Dhampu, Kokhethanti, Larjung, Kobang, Naurikot, Nakung, Bhurjungkot, Khanti, Sauru and Tukuche. Culturally this area is dominated by Thakalis, but in recent years, Gurung, Magars, Dalits and other ethnic groups have moved in.
To the North of Thak Saatsae is the Panch Gaon, meaning 'five villages'. The present settlement like Chimang, Chhairo, Marpha, Syang and Thini are the parts of Panch Gaon.
Further to the North settlements between the border area of lower and upper Mustang is Bara Gaon literally means 'twelve villages'. The baara gaon comprises of Lupra, Pagling, Dhakardzong, Phalyak, Kagbeni, Tiri, Khinga, Jharkot, Purang, Muktinath, Putak, Dzong, Chhingur, Tangbe, Chhuksang, Tetang, Tsaile, Ghyakar and Samar.
To the extreme North of the district on the Tibetan border, is the are of Lo-Tsho-Dhyun. This area comprises of villages of Ghiling, Ghami, Dhakmar, Marang, Tsarang, Dhee, Surkhang, Yara, Ghara, Tangya, Dhey, Lo-Manthang, Nhenyol, Chhoser, Samjung, Nyamdo, Kimling, Thinkar, Phuwa and Namgyal.
Politically, Mustang district at present is divided into 16 villages development committees. Jomsom is the headquarter of the district.
Mustang is situated in the Trans-Himalayan region in western development region of Dhaulagiri Zone. The deepest gorge, historical sites, human inhabited caves, forts, monasteries and temples, some of which dates back to 4000 BC provide testimonies of its rich past. The Kaligandi river flows beneath the lofty snow-caped peaks creating a stunning landscape. The natural and cultural beauty and grandeur makes the district one or the most popular trekking destination for the internal as well as overseas tourists.
Historically and culturally the present Mustang is found divided into four distinct settlements. The settlements are having their own distinct historical and cultural background.
In the south of the district is the area of Thak Saatsae, which literally mean 'seven hundred houses' which is comprised of the villages of Ghasa, Lete, Kalopani, Chhayo, Jhipra, Tagling, Kunjo, Titi, Dhampu, Kokhethanti, Larjung, Kobang, Naurikot, Nakung, Bhurjungkot, Khanti, Sauru and Tukuche. Culturally this area is dominated by Thakalis, but in recent years, Gurung, Magars, Dalits and other ethnic groups have moved in.
To the North of Thak Saatsae is the Panch Gaon, meaning 'five villages'. The present settlement like Chimang, Chhairo, Marpha, Syang and Thini are the parts of Panch Gaon.
Further to the North settlements between the border area of lower and upper Mustang is Bara Gaon literally means 'twelve villages'. The baara gaon comprises of Lupra, Pagling, Dhakardzong, Phalyak, Kagbeni, Tiri, Khinga, Jharkot, Purang, Muktinath, Putak, Dzong, Chhingur, Tangbe, Chhuksang, Tetang, Tsaile, Ghyakar and Samar.
To the extreme North of the district on the Tibetan border, is the are of Lo-Tsho-Dhyun. This area comprises of villages of Ghiling, Ghami, Dhakmar, Marang, Tsarang, Dhee, Surkhang, Yara, Ghara, Tangya, Dhey, Lo-Manthang, Nhenyol, Chhoser, Samjung, Nyamdo, Kimling, Thinkar, Phuwa and Namgyal.
Politically, Mustang district at present is divided into 16 villages development committees. Jomsom is the headquarter of the district.
Regulations for entry into the district
Entire Mustang lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area and is a protected area. The area beyond Kagbeni, called the Upper Mustang, is a restricted area. A valid entry permit is required to enter the district and a special permit is required to enter Upper Mustang. The Department of Immigration, Kathmandu issues the special permits, which cost US$ 700 for 10 days or less and US$ 70 for each additional day for the restricted Upper Mustang areas. The Annapurna Conservation Area entry permit costs NRs.200 ( Two Hundred ) per person for SAARC nationals and NRs.2000 ( Two Thousand ) per person for other foreign nationals other than SAARC to conservation areas and the lower parts of Mustang.
Where to get the permit?
The ACA entry permits are available from the ACAP entry permit counters at Sanchaya Kosh Building, Thamel, Kathmandu or from Tourist Service Centre, NTB, in Damside Pokhara.
The special permits for restricted areas of Upper Mustang are available from the Department of Immigration, Kathmandu ( Thamel ).
Double fee is levied if the permit is issued from the field check posts.
Safety Kit
Never trek alone, hire a guide if you can't find a companion.
Choose trekking companies/guides with ecofriendly concepts.
Become informed about high altitude sickness.
Carry a good medicine kit.
Watch where you are walking. Don't step backward blindly while taking photos.
Time your trek generously, taking rest while trekking is not a sign of weakness.
Tips about altitude sickness
Altitude sickness or commonly known as acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a kind of sickness developed while trekking in the high altitude, generally above 2500m. The causes of such sickness are one or more of less/lack of oxygen. less pressure, rapid ascent, dehydration and hypothermia.
Headache with one or more of the symptoms such as loss of appetite, vomiting, fatigue, dizziness, difficulty in sleeping, confusion, staggering gait and swelling of hands, face and feet above 2500m is a symbol of high altitude sickness.
Descending quickly to lower altitude areas is the best medicine for acute mountain sickness. Using oxygen, diamox in 125 mg quantity every 12 hours, Nafedipine for high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and steroids /dexamethasone for high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) are some of the common treatments to AMS. Using a Hyperbaric (Gammow) bag is a general treatment for AMS. It should be better to consult your doctor and manage the medicine before starting for the high altitude trekking.
Access route to MustangMustang can be reached either by air or on foot. There is daily flight from Pokhara to Jomsom. The helicopter service is also possible from Pokhara and Kathmandu as and when requested by the tourist. The travel by air is an exhilarating one to view Machhapuchhre, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Nilgiri and Tukuche peaks.
The suitable trekking route to reach Mustang around Annapurna starts from Besishahar-Nyadi-Bahundanda-Ghermu-Chamche-Bagarchhap in Lamjung district, Timang-Thanchowk-Chame-Humde-Manang-Gunsang-Yak Kharka-Thorang Phedi-thorang La in Manang district, Muktinath-Kagbeni-Jomsom-Marpha-Tukuche-Kobang-Lete-Ghasa in Mustang district and from Dana-Tatopani-Beni is one route or from Tatopani-Ghorepani of Myagdi district to Birethanti-Nayapul in Kaski district.
One can start trek vice versa also that is from Beni of Myagdi district or Nayapul of Kaski district.
From Besishahar to Jomsom a trek is for about 12 days and from Nayapul to Jomsom or from Beni to Jomsom is of about 5 to 6 days.
Within Mustang from Jomsom to restricted area of Upper Mustang the 10 days trekking route starts from Jomsom-Kagbeni-Chhusang-Tsaile-Samar-Syanbochhe-Ghami-Charang-Lomangthang-Chhoser. Other places of interest within the route are Ghiling, Dhakmar, Tama gaon, Marang, Surkhang, Dhee, Yara, Ghara, Tangya, Dhey, Chhonup, Namgyal, Thinger.
Places of interest in Mustang
Every settlement in Mustang is historically and culturally rich and the enchanting landscapes are very attractive to all types of visitors.
From the entry point to Mustang in the south towards north the main attractions are :
Lower Mustang
Pahiro Thapla, the site of the World's Deepest Gorge.
Kalo Badal, sight seen of the panoramic view of Mt. Annapurna and Mt. Dhaulagiri and bird watching. It is about four hours walk from Ghasa.
Titi Lake, and important site for rare water falls and good view of Mt. Dhaulagiri. About one hour walk from Kalopani, Lete.
Dhaulagiri Ice Fall, spectacular view of Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Nilgiri, Mt. Tukuche, Mt. Annapurna and birds eye view of villages from Lete to Tukuche and Kaligandi gorge. A good habitat for Musk deer. One can reach there from Kalopani or Larjung after five hour walk.
Sekung and Bhuturcho Lake, nice spectacular view of small lakes and excellent site for bird watching. One and half hour walk from Kobang and Larjung.
Maki Lhakhang is an ancient monastry in Kobang.
Gurusangbo Cave, three and half hour walk from Kobang and Larjung is an ancient Buddhist caves of anthropological interest.
Kyoupar Ghompa, A Nigma Pa Monastry of Tibetan Buddhists in Tukuche village.
Yak Kharka, four and half hour walk from Marpha and Tukuche is a vantage point to view several peaks and grazing herds of domestic Yak.
Marpha, historical village and famous for apple orchards.
Saptelling Gumba, an ancient Nigma Pa Monastry of Tibetan in Marpha village.
Tashi Lhakang, is an ancient Nigma Pa Monastry of Tibetan in Syang village.
Umba Lake, one hour walk from Jomsom and Puthang is a nice lake with good view of Mt. Nilgiri and Jomsom village also have a nice play with fish in the lake.
Kuchhupteranga Gumba, a monastry date backs to over 1000 years is a site seem spot of mountains and settlements below. It is about one and half hour walk from Jomsom and Puthang.
Mustang Eco-Museum, on the way to Puthang airport is a museum that displays natural and cultural entities of Mustang, having a monastry, Tibetan herbal collection and a library.
Kagbeni, two and half hour walk from Jomsom is a village of medieval appearance with ruined forts, ancient Shakya Pa Monastry.
Jharkot, is two and half hour walk from Kagbeni. It has ruined forts and ancient monastry.
Muktinath, six hours walk from Jomsom (headquarter of Mustang) is a place of religious symbiosis between Bhuddhist and Hindus as it is worshipped by Hindus and taken care by Buddhist. Jwala Mai is an ever burning flame worshipped by both Hindus and Buddhists. Narshing Gumba and Shamba Gumba are the important Gumbas. Muktinath is a gateway to Manang via Thorang La.
Entire Mustang lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area and is a protected area. The area beyond Kagbeni, called the Upper Mustang, is a restricted area. A valid entry permit is required to enter the district and a special permit is required to enter Upper Mustang. The Department of Immigration, Kathmandu issues the special permits, which cost US$ 700 for 10 days or less and US$ 70 for each additional day for the restricted Upper Mustang areas. The Annapurna Conservation Area entry permit costs NRs.200 ( Two Hundred ) per person for SAARC nationals and NRs.2000 ( Two Thousand ) per person for other foreign nationals other than SAARC to conservation areas and the lower parts of Mustang.
Where to get the permit?
The ACA entry permits are available from the ACAP entry permit counters at Sanchaya Kosh Building, Thamel, Kathmandu or from Tourist Service Centre, NTB, in Damside Pokhara.
The special permits for restricted areas of Upper Mustang are available from the Department of Immigration, Kathmandu ( Thamel ).
Double fee is levied if the permit is issued from the field check posts.
Safety Kit
Never trek alone, hire a guide if you can't find a companion.Choose trekking companies/guides with ecofriendly concepts.
Become informed about high altitude sickness.
Carry a good medicine kit.
Watch where you are walking. Don't step backward blindly while taking photos.
Time your trek generously, taking rest while trekking is not a sign of weakness.
Tips about altitude sickness
Altitude sickness or commonly known as acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a kind of sickness developed while trekking in the high altitude, generally above 2500m. The causes of such sickness are one or more of less/lack of oxygen. less pressure, rapid ascent, dehydration and hypothermia.
Headache with one or more of the symptoms such as loss of appetite, vomiting, fatigue, dizziness, difficulty in sleeping, confusion, staggering gait and swelling of hands, face and feet above 2500m is a symbol of high altitude sickness.
Descending quickly to lower altitude areas is the best medicine for acute mountain sickness. Using oxygen, diamox in 125 mg quantity every 12 hours, Nafedipine for high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and steroids /dexamethasone for high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) are some of the common treatments to AMS. Using a Hyperbaric (Gammow) bag is a general treatment for AMS. It should be better to consult your doctor and manage the medicine before starting for the high altitude trekking.
Access route to MustangMustang can be reached either by air or on foot. There is daily flight from Pokhara to Jomsom. The helicopter service is also possible from Pokhara and Kathmandu as and when requested by the tourist. The travel by air is an exhilarating one to view Machhapuchhre, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Nilgiri and Tukuche peaks.
The suitable trekking route to reach Mustang around Annapurna starts from Besishahar-Nyadi-Bahundanda-Ghermu-Chamche-Bagarchhap in Lamjung district, Timang-Thanchowk-Chame-Humde-Manang-Gunsang-Yak Kharka-Thorang Phedi-thorang La in Manang district, Muktinath-Kagbeni-Jomsom-Marpha-Tukuche-Kobang-Lete-Ghasa in Mustang district and from Dana-Tatopani-Beni is one route or from Tatopani-Ghorepani of Myagdi district to Birethanti-Nayapul in Kaski district.
One can start trek vice versa also that is from Beni of Myagdi district or Nayapul of Kaski district.
From Besishahar to Jomsom a trek is for about 12 days and from Nayapul to Jomsom or from Beni to Jomsom is of about 5 to 6 days.
Within Mustang from Jomsom to restricted area of Upper Mustang the 10 days trekking route starts from Jomsom-Kagbeni-Chhusang-Tsaile-Samar-Syanbochhe-Ghami-Charang-Lomangthang-Chhoser. Other places of interest within the route are Ghiling, Dhakmar, Tama gaon, Marang, Surkhang, Dhee, Yara, Ghara, Tangya, Dhey, Chhonup, Namgyal, Thinger.
Places of interest in Mustang
Every settlement in Mustang is historically and culturally rich and the enchanting landscapes are very attractive to all types of visitors.
From the entry point to Mustang in the south towards north the main attractions are :
Lower Mustang
Pahiro Thapla, the site of the World's Deepest Gorge.
Kalo Badal, sight seen of the panoramic view of Mt. Annapurna and Mt. Dhaulagiri and bird watching. It is about four hours walk from Ghasa.
Titi Lake, and important site for rare water falls and good view of Mt. Dhaulagiri. About one hour walk from Kalopani, Lete.
Dhaulagiri Ice Fall, spectacular view of Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Nilgiri, Mt. Tukuche, Mt. Annapurna and birds eye view of villages from Lete to Tukuche and Kaligandi gorge. A good habitat for Musk deer. One can reach there from Kalopani or Larjung after five hour walk.
Sekung and Bhuturcho Lake, nice spectacular view of small lakes and excellent site for bird watching. One and half hour walk from Kobang and Larjung.
Maki Lhakhang is an ancient monastry in Kobang.
Gurusangbo Cave, three and half hour walk from Kobang and Larjung is an ancient Buddhist caves of anthropological interest.
Kyoupar Ghompa, A Nigma Pa Monastry of Tibetan Buddhists in Tukuche village.
Yak Kharka, four and half hour walk from Marpha and Tukuche is a vantage point to view several peaks and grazing herds of domestic Yak.
Marpha, historical village and famous for apple orchards.
Saptelling Gumba, an ancient Nigma Pa Monastry of Tibetan in Marpha village.
Tashi Lhakang, is an ancient Nigma Pa Monastry of Tibetan in Syang village.
Umba Lake, one hour walk from Jomsom and Puthang is a nice lake with good view of Mt. Nilgiri and Jomsom village also have a nice play with fish in the lake.
Kuchhupteranga Gumba, a monastry date backs to over 1000 years is a site seem spot of mountains and settlements below. It is about one and half hour walk from Jomsom and Puthang.
Mustang Eco-Museum, on the way to Puthang airport is a museum that displays natural and cultural entities of Mustang, having a monastry, Tibetan herbal collection and a library.
Kagbeni, two and half hour walk from Jomsom is a village of medieval appearance with ruined forts, ancient Shakya Pa Monastry.
Jharkot, is two and half hour walk from Kagbeni. It has ruined forts and ancient monastry.
Muktinath, six hours walk from Jomsom (headquarter of Mustang) is a place of religious symbiosis between Bhuddhist and Hindus as it is worshipped by Hindus and taken care by Buddhist. Jwala Mai is an ever burning flame worshipped by both Hindus and Buddhists. Narshing Gumba and Shamba Gumba are the important Gumbas. Muktinath is a gateway to Manang via Thorang La.
Upper Mustang (Restricted Area)Altitude diary of important places
Places Altitude (Meters) Place
Ghasa - 2010
Jharkot - 3550
Tetang - 3820
Lo-Ghyakar - 3870
Lete - 2480
Ranipauwa - 3710
Tsaile - 3050
Lo-Manthang - 3720
Kobang - 2640
Muktinath Temple - 3800
Samar - 3660
Kore La - 4400
Tukuche - 2590
Thorung La - 5416
Syanbochen - 3820
Nhiphu -3870
Jomsom -2720
Lupra - 3150
Ghiling - 3597
Dhi - 3340
Eklebhatti - 2740
Sangta - 4290
Nyi La - 3960
Luri - 4210
Kagbeni - 2800
Chhusang - 2940
Ghami - 3490
Tangya - 3310
Khinga - 3200
Tangbe - 3017
Tsarang - 3620
Damodar Kund - 4800
Important Religious Festivals
The monasteries and religious places of Mustang serve not only as places of worship and cultural identity but also as places of celebration. The festivals celebrated in Mustang are mostly the reflection of their ancient tradition, culture and believes of the local people. These festivals are so colorful and the eye-catching events of the Buddhist monks and also the local people attract the outsider visitors.
The biggest festival of the Thakali is called Lha Phewa, which literally means "coming of god". This festival is celebrated for 16 days in every 12 years in winter in Kobang and Larjung area. It was celebrated in the beginning of 2005 and will be celebrate after 12 years. Thakalis all over gater at Thak Khola valley ( Kobang / Larjung ) to celebrate, recall thei9r families, histories, meet old friends and make new ones. Each of the four class Gauchan, Tulachan, Sherchan and Bhattachan have a Paande or a local priest who in charge of keeping the family's history safe as well as acting the part of the god during the festivities. The image of the deities are brought out from their homes and worshipped amidst great merry-making, singing and dancing.
The festival of Pomo Ama also occurs every 12 years in the spring after Lha Phewa. this in only celebrated in Thini settlement of Jomsom VDC and is though to have originated around 1200 A.D. It is held to worship Goddess Pomo Ama whose two sons reside on either side of her face. It is believed that the Goddess grant a wish and celebrated for 14 days during which the statue is unveiled and worshippers request blessings from her along with other protector deities.
Yarthung is celebrated all over Mustang and is especially celebrated in large scale in Muktinath in August every year. It is three day celebration and is celebrated by horse racing, drinking and dancing. A special horse for the God of Yartung is brought out for him to ride. During the three days celebration, in the first day the King's (local king) activities take place, the monks activities take place in the second day and in the third day the local people's activities take place. The most attractive event of this festival is the horse racing competition. During Yarthung people from Mustang itself, from adjacent areas of Manang and also from other parts of country assemble there for the festival.
The most important festival of Upper Mustang especially of Lo-Mustang is the Teeji Festival. This is a festival indigenous to Lo-Manthang and commemorates the victory of Dhoyje Sonam, and incarnation of the Buddha, over the demon called Ma Tam Ru who wrecked havoc on humans in the forms of storms, floods and droughts. It is celebrated inside the fort settlement of Lo-Mangthang for 3 days. One monk must stay in seclusion for three months prior to the festival to prepare for the role of Dorje Sonam in the ritual dances. On the third day of the ceremony, he defeats an effigy of the demon in a dance. Teeji falls on the 27th - 29th of the third in the Tibetan Calendar which in in late April or early May. The most festive dance of the monks which reflects the ancient history of the place and culture is the most attractive events of the Teeji festival.
There are many locally celebrated festivals which are very important to the local people. Some of the locally celebrated festivals are : Bhadra Mela celebrated in Thini, Kobang and Kuno, Toranla in Thak Saatsae and Panch Gaon, Lhosar in Bara Gaon etc.
Tourist Facilities
Tourist Information Centre
Annapurna Conservation Area Project has established check posts and information centre along the trekking route to provide information on trekking, culture, history as well as conservation and development strategy of conservation area to trekkers. There are information centers at Jomsom, Muktinath, Kagbeni and Lo-Manthang.
Safe Drinking Water StationTo provide safe drinking water to the trekkers and also to generate income for the local communities, to reduce the number of plastic bottles that are brought into Mustang. ACAP with New Zealand Overseas Development Assistance have established Safe Drinking Water Stations at Muktinath, Kagbeni, Jomsom , Marpha, Tukuche, Larjung, Lete and Ghasa. The water is purified by the ozonation process and is safer and cheaper than bottled water. It cost NRs.30/- to NRs.40/- per liter of water.
CommunicationAll VDC's are accessible with the V-Sat Telephone. Many hotels are also access to telephone. For emergencies, however two-way radios are available in the ACAP offices and check post at Jomsom. Kagbeni and Lo-Manthang. Internet and e-mail facilities are also available at Jomsom, Marpha and Kagbeni.
Banks and Money Exchange
The Nepal Bank Ltd. and Machhepuchchhre Bank Ltd. has an office at Jomsom where foreign cash and travelers cheques can be exchanged for local currency. Money can also be exchanged by the authorized money exchange center at Jomsom. Cash can be obtained by means of a credit card in some hotels at Jomsom.
Hospital and Medical Facilities
The government's district hospital is at Jomsom. There are 10 health posts and 5 sub-health posts scattered through the district. At Ghami there is hospital established by an INGO called Mustang Development Service Association is providing medical services. At Lo-Manthnang the ACAP is also providing some kind of medical service to the people during winter season. Medicine can be brought at the Pharmacy in the airport area at Jomsom and also in the district hospital area.
Food and Accommodation
Lodges and tea shops are dotted along the trekking route with a range of amenities, including hot water, satellite T.V. and availability of porters and horses. One can hire porters or horses from the staying hotel or lodges. ACAP formed a tourism management sub-committee for each villages has tried to standardize prices to prevent undercutting. Hotels may charge more than the standard prices depending on the quality of food and services. Bargaining is therefore discouraged and it is common courtesy to eat at the place where you stay, especially due to the low room charge.
Information and data sources are from the different publications of ACAP, Jomsom
